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Following a full day and a couple nights sleep of recuperation from the Cascade Loop, we embarked on the shorter
Pacific Marine Circle Route trip. This route took us from Horseshoe Bay in West Vancouver by ferry to Nanaimo where we then rode south on the Island Highway. We turned right on #18 west to Lake Cowichan, refueled and had lunch at the A & W.
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The area between Lake Cowichan and Port Renfrew is about 65 kms of winding, undulating, narrow road with gravel shoulders, passing logging trucks, wildlife like black bear, deer and elk and is relatively isolated. Although beautiful, the landscape is also scarred in many places from
clear-cutting and prompted me to reflect upon the value of the paper and wood I use and to see how I, too, had a hand in the destruction of this hidden, precious habitat without raising an axe myself.
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When we arrived in Port Renfrew, we checked-in to our
Trailhead Resorts “hiker hut” accommodations, lightened our load and rode to the trailhead for
Botanical Beach to explore the tide pools and take in the spectacular ocean views. It was a sunny Friday, and a great day for beachcombing, hiking, riding, enjoying a beer or dining
al fresco at the Port Renfrew Pub or the Coast Kitchen Cafe.
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Although there was a loose stone, slightly sloping driveway around the hiker huts, we were able to park the bikes next to the cabin and not have to worry about them. Port Renfrew can be a very busy place from late spring to early fall. It is next to the Pascheedaht First Nation Reserve and a starting point for the
Juan de Fuca Trail and much longer
West Coast Trail. There is the underwater
Neptune Oceans Network Observatory just off shore. It is, not surprisingly, a popular place for marine biologists, campers, hikers, sports fishermen, tourists, cottagers and, of course, bikers like us!
The ride from Port Renfrew south along the coast to Sooke was great, although British Columbia roads are not in the best condition. There were some excellent lookout points where you could stop and enjoy the panoramic view of the ocean and magnificent
Olympic Mountains across the Juan de Fuca Strait on the American side.
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Sooke provided another useful refueling and washroom break before continuing on around Victoria to the Swartz Bay ferry terminal to
Tsawwassen and home. For this trip, we racked up a mere 360 kms plus ferry crossings compared to about 950 during the Cascade Loop. Another day in each of these locations would have been nice to enjoy some horseback riding or flyfishing in Winthrop and ocean fishing or exploring around Port Renfrew. Maybe that’s for another trip down the road, and another time.
Note: See more Pacific Marine Circle photos by clicking on View Profile above then Photos.
Nice post! I've been planning just this loop from Olympia, Washington, for awhile. My wife is a novice rider. She's a "good" novice, but she's very uncomfortable with gravel road surfaces. Will I hit any gravel stretches on the loop this weekend? Thanks for whatever info you can provide!
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